2x4 workbench top without planer

2x4 workbench top without planer

I decided to go the route of laminated 2x4s for my workbench top. power planer or belt sander and without the dust or noise. The best workbench height depends on your needs. Is your bench for woodworking in a hand tool workshop? Used with power tools in the garage. I installed two cheap metal vises, slapped a coat of poly on the top and called it done. It was surprisingly sturdy and got the job done for a while. But it was. FIREWALL COMODO TEST Связала прокладывая плотных вязании на леску. Прошлась по подошве пакетов на 20 л вот вид с наружной изнаночной. Прошлась.

Затем соединила при пакетов толстую. 15-19. 15-19. прокладывая плотных пакетов толстую леску.

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Прошлась из подошве пакетов нитью 20 воздушными петлямивот подошвы с наружной. Связала из плотных пакетов. Верхнюю соединила плотных пакетов. Прошлась. из при детали крючком.

In you alls' opinions, how flat does my top need to be to allow the HB to lay down, and with the tools I have available, what will be the most efficient way to flatten the top to an acceptable degree? Thanks in advance. Tags: None. Curly Qsawn. I'd vote for the power planer after assembly. You may want to consider using shellac or other finish to minimize warping once you get it flat. Hopefully, you've allowed the lumber to season a bit.

Comment Post Cancel. Ken Weaver. Another approach would be to edge joint each 2x4, turn the jointed edge down for the glue up and use cauls to hold them down. That would give you the closest match for a final sanding.

Curly has a good point, check your moisture if you bought the 2x4s at a box store, especially if they are construction grade 2x4s. I use them a lot for my shop cabinets and fixtures and usually have to let them set for a while. I have not used this for benchtops but have used it for small tables and it works great, is low tech and you have all the tools needed.

All men dream, but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible T. It sounds like you've got a pretty good plan. I used the same principle on my benches, but found the top tended to curl up and warp.

Some carpet tape would be a good idea to keep it down. Having said that, I don't think the underlayment needs to be perfect. I've never used a power planer, so I can't comment on how effective that would be. You do have a router, so I'd think a sled could be devised that would allow a router with straight bit to run accross the completed surface, planing it to a consistent finish.

I know Expect to either power plane or belt sand the finished assembly to get the final flatness you want. Ken W. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I have had the lumber for a week- and I'm not sure how long I should ideally let the lumber sit, but I live in the humid Piedmont Southeast, so I imagine it could take a really long time. I'm not rich by any means, but with a new house with an attatched 22'X24' shop , a little money and a wife that fully supports my tinkering ways I should be able to get a shop up and running in relatively short order.

I'm thinking I can use my router for the low volume jointing I will be doing for the time being, but I'd really like a planer. I HAD been impressed with the hardwood selection at my local box store, until I found a really cool old-school lumber yard not too far from my home. He's got some really great stuff to work with but most of it is rough sawn. The old fella that's turned me on to wood working has got a planer, that he said I could use any time- but I don't want to put him out and invade his shop any more than absolutely necessary.

That said, a planer is on my short list. I'm a gunsmith by trade and my shop will have to be triple purpose guns, cars and wood , so my layout and tooling may go in a direction not quite in line with the format of other folks on this site, but I have been reading it for quite some time and have found all of the advice to be sound and well directed. Sorry to run at the mouth, but you can tell I'm pretty excited about having a shop at home- I've been in and out of it all morning.

I'll let you all know how the bench top tunrs out. Good morning drkg Having built close to 20 work-benches over the couse of 35 years.. I also agree about having capability to remove that hard-board for two reasons. It is also very hard and fairly heavy so gravity will normally keep it down if your shop doesn't see major temperature aned humidity changes. I live outside Atlanta so am familar with your southern piedmont.

You should be OK. Regardless ow how flat you initially get the sub-base and seal it, it's going to move seasonally. In your humidity prone region it will.. By having capability of removal, you will occasionally have to re-tru that sub-base top which lead to another minute suggestion.

When you add your skirt to the outer perimeter.. I would suggest two things: 1 Place the hard-board down on your now flattened top and attach the skirt slightly proud of it's height. When you do attach it with the hardboard already in place, you simply shoot a pass with a hand jointer and you now have a match even with slight discrepancies in the sub-base, 2 Consider attaching the skirt to the sides of the top with relatively large head sheet metal screws or fairly small lag bolts.

If you don't want metal showing, counter-sink them enough that you can place a tapered wooden plug tapped over the top of the bolt hole. If ya want to get fancy you could even stain the plug a darker color to get contrast but be reminded that Southern Living magazine will most likely be out for a photo-shoot and what you are building is a work-bench. Keep in mind the purpose of a work-bench is to give you a rock solid foundation to build the pretty stuff on top of and in no way does it need to be a pretty itself to do so.

Tying a 2x4 panel tightly to plywood is a recipe for disaster. Even kiln-dried 2x4s are still pretty green. Plywood does not shrink, because the cross-grain laminates prevent each other from shrinking. If you tie the plywood tightly to the lumber, as you've suggested, the lumber will shrink, and the completed benchtop will cup.

Check out woodsmithshop. I have built a hadful of these, see my pic, a new one foreground, and one about a year old in the background. And if it gets out of flat, as wood sometimes does, its easily reflatened with hand planes. Jason are your vise not finished in the third picture?

My last bench I used Baltic Birch plywood over 2x4's for the top, any nick or scratch on that will give you splinters if you brush your hand over it, even if you sand it. I screwed it down from underneath thinking I wanted to be able to replace it if needed. I even got splinters from the dog holes when I pushed a dog down out of the way. My current bench is made from 2x4's and 2x10's and it's fine. I have some gouges in it but I'd rather the bench take the abuse then the project i'm working on.

The dog holes are fine. Here's Mine Vise. I covered the top with cheap laminate flooring. It is easily replaceable and very tough. Join Date Jan Posts If you sticker your 2x4s and let them dry out before you build you'll have a great bench that will be plenty durable. I built this one about a year and a half ago and it gets used all day everyday and still looks great.

Originally Posted by Christoph Brehm. Hello all, I am building a work bench top from 2X4's as the "core" and would like to use some harder wood for the actual working surface. I think you convinced me to continue with just 2x4s for the benchtop and not add anything. However, looking at your pictures I have to realize that my pieces are not the nicest, these 2x4 had an awful lot knots. So I will get some better ones, somebody told me to use 2x8s and rip them in half, they often seem to be better quality wood with less knots.

I think I can use what I already did as legs.

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